Is a bottle of wine with a screw cap enclosure a lesser wine that one with a cork? What about synthetic corks? Are they as good as the real deal? What is a synthetic cork? Does it matter? Enclosures do matter. By the end of this post my hope is that you will be open (get it?) to trying them all!
Cork: Corks are made from tree bark; a species of oak trees known as cork trees. Mainly grown in Portugal and Spain, these trees can live over 150 years. The bark is very carefully peeled off into strips and dried over several weeks before being made into enclosures. Cork is the grand-daddy of wine bottle enclosures. Cork has sealed up both good and bad wine alike since wine was first fermented. It's the standard for bottling and is perceived to be the best way to store wine in a vessel. But is it?
Have you ever opened a bottle of wine only to get the first whiffs of a moldy newspaper, wet dog, damp cloth or damp basement? That, my friends, is cork taint, aka "corked" or "corky". This is a broad term for defining a wine that has undesirable characteristics, like the ones I mentioned. The taint can only be detected after bottling, aging and opening. Other factors like storage conditions and barrels can be the culprit but by and large corks are the offenders. This is chiefly caused by a chemical presence in the wine called TCA, a chemical compound description that is reserved only for the most hardcore oenophile. What you need to know is that corks don't cause this issue. By nature of being a cork (light and airy, expanding and contracting) it can allow these chemical compounds to pass through to spoil the wine. Cork taint can affect any wine, regardless of quality or price, so get to know what a wet dog smells like and prepare to get your sniff-on when opening a bottle.
Fact: If you get a "corked" bottle of wine in a restaurant, DO NOT grin and bear it. You paid for good wine. Tell your server and ask for a new bottle. The restaurant does not pay for the tainted bottle, the winery replaces it. The last thing a winery wants is a reputation for tainted wine and they are happy to keep you happy!
Synthetic Cork: These cork alternatives were designed to reduce the incidence of cork taint.
Synthetic corks are made from plastic compounds designed to look and "pop" like natural cork, but without the risk of TCA contamination. They do come with some disadvantages, though. It can be a job in itself just to get them out of the bottle because they don't have the same "give" as a real cork does. While this is not always the case, you will experience this at some point. They can allow harmful air in the bottle after time which will spoil the wine and they are not biodegradable so they will sit in a landfill for all of eternity.
In short, synthetic corks are the "Stepford wives" of enclosures. On the surface they look and act "natural" but there can be consequences to faking it. However, don't be dissuaded. You'll probably find them A-OK.
Screw-Cap: Long thought to be only for "skid row" wines, the screw cap gets a bad rap. Actually, a screw cap enclosure prevents cork taint and oxidation in wine and has a much lower failure rate than cork. It's also a lot easier to open – one less tool to bring along at a picnic! There is a perceived down side, however. Wines that need serious aging or one that you would keep for decades may not fare as well as one with a cork. This is due to the very slow induction of oxygen, via cork, that can allow these types of wine to "age" better. But really, how many bottles are you going to keep for 20 years?
Screw cap enclosures are making a surprising comeback and not just in inexpensive price tiers. Australia and New Zealand were the first to give screw caps a go with their higher quality wines. By 2004 New Zealand's entire production was under 70% screw cap enclosure and Australia is right behind them. On a trip to Oz's wine regions in 2010, I was hard-pressed to find a cork anywhere. Even the good stuff has a screw cap, and for good reason. Now, finally, the US has taken the leap with multiple-million case brands now under screw cap that is increasingly accepted by consumers. A trend I hope continues to grow.
I would encourage you to put a "twist" on your wine tasting! If it makes you feel better, make sure you make the "POP!" sound while you twist!